A beacon of hope flickers in Portland's Chinatown, where two iconic restaurants, the Republic Cafe and Golden Horse Seafood Restaurant, are fighting to stay afloat. These establishments, steeped in history and culture, are the last of their kind in the 10-block New Chinatown/Japantown Historic District.
The Republic Cafe, Portland's oldest Chinese restaurant, has seen its fair share of glory days. Once a hotspot for celebrities and politicians, it now struggles to attract customers, with only a few delivery drivers and pick-up orders keeping it alive. The pandemic dealt a severe blow, and the owners, Sue Mui and her husband, had to adapt, shifting to evening-only service.
"I think people are scared to come down here," Mui said, expressing her concerns about the neighborhood's reputation and the challenges it poses.
Golden Horse, on the other hand, has been a staple for Cantonese cuisine since 1998. Sophy Li, who immigrated to Portland from Taishan, China, has dedicated her life to this restaurant. She met her husband here, and together they bought the business. Despite receiving assistance from city programs, including a stunning mural by artist Alex Chin, business remains slow.
"I feel the pressure every day," Li confessed. "The street's appearance scares customers away."
Both restaurants are symbols of resilience, having weathered the pandemic and Oregon's brief experiment with drug decriminalization. They represent a neighborhood that has long been associated with grit and character.
But here's where it gets controversial: Should these restaurants be left to fade away, or is there a way to revive them and bring customers back?
Peter Yue, a Portland design consultant, believes in a "Chinatown 2.0" vision. He envisions an arts-driven transformation, attracting a new wave of creatives and making the neighborhood feel "safe, cool, and hip."
The Old Town Community Association has been working towards this goal, investing in building improvements and supporting local businesses. Jessie Burke, the chair, recognizes the authenticity and resilience of these restaurants.
"These are small business owners who have endured a terrible storm," Burke said. "They care deeply about this Portland neighborhood."
The Republic Cafe is taking steps to restore its iconic neon sign, hoping it will act as a "beacon of hope" and draw customers back. Golden Horse, too, is looking for ways to secure its future, with Li expressing her emotional attachment to the place.
As we explore the future of these restaurants, one question remains: Can art and community efforts breathe new life into Portland's Chinatown, or will these historic eateries eventually fade into memory?
What are your thoughts? Do you think these restaurants can make a comeback, or is it time to let go of the past and embrace new beginnings?
